Tornare a sentire quel profumo, quel sapore, che ci riporta indietro nel tempo e che ci fa sentire a casa ovunque noi siamo.

venerdì 27 novembre 2015

Pappafrullo e Olio Clara ( focaccia marchigiana con erbe spontanee)


Le Marche sono un plurale
“Se si volesse stabilire qual è il paesaggio italiano più tipico, bisognerebbe indicare le Marche… L’Italia, nel suo insieme è una specie di prisma nel quale sembrano riflettere tutti i paesaggi della Terra, facendo atto di presenza in proporzioni modeste e armonizzandosi l’un l’altro. L’Italia, con i suoi paesaggi, è un distillato del mondo, le Marche dell’Italia” 
(Guido Piovene, Viaggio in Italia)

Mentre ascoltavo Daniele che  parlava  del suo prodotto, Olio Clara, pensavo  alla citazione di G.Piovene; è incredibile come un paesaggio, una cultura, una regione possano riflettersi in un prodotto.
Sono oltre 30 le cultivar presenti nella Regione, molte delle quali autoctone e coltivate esclusivamente nel territorio marchigiano.

Quindi ancora una volta le Marche mirano e fanno centro.
Daniele Paci è il fondatore di una piccola cooperativa di produttori di Olio con la O maiuscola che curano amorevolmente, olio  Clara.
Già il fatto di dare  un nome al proprio prodotto, la dice lunga, soprattutto se poi si tratta del nome della mamma.
Ecco le parole di chi produce Clara
"Il Consorzio Clara nasce con l’intento di tutelare e valorizzare il patrimonio olivicolo della Regione Marche. Curiamo con dedizione coltivazioni biologiche mono varietali a rischio di erosione genetica dalle quali ricaviamo olio extravergine di oliva di alta qualità dalle elevate proprietà organolettiche e identità gustative uniche."
Non mi è possibile trasmettere il profumo e l'intensità di questo olio ma se volete far fare al vostro 
palato un giro sull'otto volante cercate Clara, difficile non notarla, vista la sua elegante veste.
Ho voluto presentarvi questo Olio con la realizzazione di un piatto povero della tradizione
contadina marchigiana, il pappafrullo, questo sconosciuto; una ricetta semplice ma piena di peculiarità,
una focaccia fatta con la farina di mais, altro prodotto importante e fondamentale che ha sfamato per 
tanti anni la gente di campagna e che oggi a volte compare sulle nostre tavola spesso solo come
 polenta.
Il pappafrullo semplicemente è una crescia o focaccia fatta con  farina di mais, acqua  e sale, cotta
direttamente sui mattoni del focolare, mescolata con le erbe di campo ripassate in padella con olio aglio
 e peperoncino.

Ecco  la mia rivisitazione del pappafrullo , ho reso la focaccia più "leggera", utilizzato un mix di farine,
 aggiunto un po' di lievito ed lasciato maturare l'impasto per 24 ore.









Ingredienti
per la focaccia o "crescia"
  • 350 g di farina 0 per pane
  • 150 g di farina di mais
  • 350 ml di acqua
  • 2 g di lievito di birra
  • 20 g di sale
  • olio extra vergine di oliva Olio Clara
  • erbe spontanee rugni, crispigne, malva, pimpinella...lessate e ripassate in padella con aglio e peperoncino.

Pimpinella, malva.







Rugni



















In una ciotola mescolare le farine e aggiungere lievito di birra, l'acqua e il sale, mescolare con un cucchiaio di legno il tempo necessario per far assorbire l'acqua, praticamente per una manciata di secondi. Il classico e conosciutissimo metodo "senza impasto".
Copriamo la ciotola con un telo o pellicola e lasciamo maturare l'impasto a temperatura ambiente per circa 16 ore.
Trascorso il tempo previsto facciamo una serie di pieghe a tre, arrotondiamo a palla e lasciamo riposare per 1 ora, poi di nuovo una serie di pieghe, riposo per 30 minuti e poi stendiamo con le mani in una teglia e attendiamo che raddoppi il suo volume ( ci vorranno circa 2 ore).
Forno 190° ventilato per circa 30 minuti, con l'accortezza di mettere il forno in fessura negli ultimi 10 minuti di cottura.
Preparazione del pappafrullo:
semplicemente tagliare la focaccia tostarla in forno e mescolarla con le erbe, ripassate in padella con aglio e peperoncino, il tutto condito generosamente con olio Clara.

32 commenti:

  1. Mi piacciono molto queste tipologie di ricette che sanno di storia e tradizioni.
    Bella quell'introduzione di Guido Piovene sui paesaggi della Marche.

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. Grazie....si piace moltissimo anche a me, racchiude in poche frasi una realtà unica.

      Elimina
  2. Amo chi sa riconoscere le erbe spontanee..questa focaccia è un vero sogno, complimenti!

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. Grazie Consuelo, è incredibile quello che puoi trovare facendo una passeggiata!!!!

      Elimina
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